Wednesday, May 22, 2024

FALLING IN LOVE WITH MOTHER OCEAN!

 

And then my Dad bought a boat!

And not just a boat... but a 50' racing sailboat, the Cotton Blossom II.

Richard was always prone to take flamboyant and eccentric flyers. These included flying his own twin engine airplane, creating a 63 horse thoroughbred breeding farm and a buying a 500 head cattle ranch in Oregon. 

These were always fine with me! Even as a kid, I got to be a Pilot, a Horse Breeder and a Cowboy!

And now, a Sailor?

So when he bought the Blossom out of the blue, when I was just just 17, I queried, "But... none of us know how to sail !"

Cotton Blossom II 
after Dennis Conner restored her as his personal yacht!

We, as a family then took sailing lessons, and learned to sail and race aboard the CB II. 

I loved being on Mother Ocean! 

Whether on the starting line beginning a race, or on an overnight race around Anacapa Island, or quietly anchored in a cove at Catalina, I felt totally grounded being on the Sea.

But in the inactivity between races, my overly competitively teenaged spirit demanded more racing. So Dave Croshere, a crewmate on the Cotton Blossom II, and I decided to buy and campaign a racing sailboat. 

Flying Dutchman

A sailing magazine described the Flying Dutchman as a 2 man, high performance, potent planing dingy, and an Olympic Class boat. 

At 20' x 6' in size, with a total weight of only 350 pounds, yet with 400 square feet of sail and a trapeze to increase our human ballast, this sounded perfect... a challenging boat that could really fly! 

So our racing quest began!

For the next 3+ years, we raced almost every weekend in Los Angeles, San Francisco, or down in San Diego. We also took summer cross country road trips to Chicago, Annapolis, Houston, Niagara on the Lake and Montreal. 

At first we towed the FD on a trailer to get to the next race, but then we switched to roof topping the boat on a station wagon or a camper so we could drive at the legal speed limit, while really protecting the hull.

Sailing to weather in 15 knots of wind!

What a challenge it was to learn how to sail this boat. And then how to make it go fast! 

As the wind grew in strength, it was hard to keep from heeling and tipping over. There is no keel with a stabilizing counter weight on the Flying Dutchman, only a 4' deep centerboard to give us lateral resistance through the water. 

So we learned how to bend the mast and boom in order to flatten the main sail, and how to open the slot between the main and genoa, to make the wind flow thru freer. 

And to increase our weight on the trapeze, we would wear sweatshirts. A wet sweatshirt weighs about 5 pounds, so by donning 5, this added about 25 pounds of leverage, at an optimum 6 feet outboard to windward. 

Our main strategy was to keep the boat flat and on her lines. Going into the wind, we would set the boat and sails up for the wind and sea conditions, and then steer as close as we could into the wind, while maintaining the boat's heeling level by hiking out more and easing the main sail traveler as needed.

                             How exciting it is to skip over the water at up to 25 mph!

As our skill level and experience improved, so did our positions on the podium. And in the national rankings. 

We placed in 2 different Olympic Trials. We finished in 5th and in 8th Place, but only 1 boat from each Country could go. 

Bummer... but what a quest!!!

We ultimately peaked by winning the North American Flying Dutchman Championship on San Francisco Bay! We placed first against about 50 boats on the starting line... from 6 different countries!

It helped that the wind blew 20 to 25 knots for each race, and that we were young and strong. 

Dave and I weighed about 400 pounds combined... more than the entire boat and rig. And at 6' 3" extended on the trapeze, with only my feet on the side of the hull, I provided near perfect leverage to help keep the boat flat, and in balance.

What a thrill it was to lead the fleet, winning the 7 race regatta! 

And then after collecting the trophies, we were thrown into the Bay by our proud competitors.

A Truly Peak Experience!

After years of tasting salt water several times a week, I missed the Sea when I wasn't there.

Years before Jimmy Buffett put it into words and song, I knew the feeling!



 I am in love with Mother Ocean!



Friday, December 20, 2019

Tapas, Bouillabaisse and Pasta

You can pick the Time, or the Place... But you can't pick both!

It is always stressful when trying to meet friends and family at a specific harbor on a specific date. The arrival  plans are often interrupted because of weather and other SSDDs (Same Shit, Different Days). The only practical solution is to try hard for the rendezvous, but always with the caveat, "You can pick the Time, or the Place... But you can't pick both!".

So when the Crosheres planned to join No Regrets for a month of cruising, they scheduled a flight into Milan, Italy, expecting a short train ride west along the coast to meet up somewhere around Cannes, France.

As it turned out, they flew instead from Milan to Barcelona, Spain, because we were delayed in Barcelona by a month! They chose to meet the boat at a time certain, and Barcelona ended up being the place!

Annette Smyth had signed on for a month of cruising adventure to move the boat from Barcelona to Cannes to meet my California friends. I met Annette on Find-a-Crew, a great website that is like a dating service between skippers looking for crew, and crew looking for a boat to cruise on. Annette is a fun loving Irish lady, who now lives in Bosnia, but loves being on the ocean. When she came aboard for a month, we provisioned for the sail to Marseille, but the night before casting off, we did the safety and boat tour and discovered that the generator would not start   :((


Not the Generator again?

That meant a delay to get it repaired... 4 weeks as it turned out. We were both disappointed not to be traveling up the Rhone River to Avignon in France. But Summertime in Barcelona is also fabulous. This fulfilled my lifelong dream of living in Barcelona, even if only for 4 months. Annette was very understanding and we had tons of fun while hanging out in Barcelona. 



Rick, Leo and Annette


Tapas in Barcelona Spain

We soon fell into a comfy schedule of eating Tapas, kayaking, going to the beach, exploring the City, and listening to music. Who knew that there are weekly concerts on the roof of Gaudi's Casa Battlo?


Jazz under the Stars


Next to Gaudi's Chimneys


So Playful


Fascinating 


And Lovely

Enjoying Tapas (Small Plates) with the assembled crew.
Each Tapas has a different taste (e.g. octopus on one and a small beef filet on another)
It takes 3 or 4 Tapas to make up a full meal.


The generator, is finally repaired and ready to reinstall.
Now "Debbie" can finally live up to her name (From "Debbie does Dallas") 
Debbie does Europe!


The night before leaving Barcelona, Dave, Anne and I went to the Palace de Musica to watch a Flamenco performance. A torrential rain storm caught us while walking from the Metro to a Tapas dinner next to the Palace.

We were so wet that we literally wrung out our shirts at the dinner table. Several bottles of Cava, a Spanish Champagne, lifted our spirits, and the lively Flamenco dancing combined for one of the best experiences of this 3 year voyage.

Wet but not dismayed

Sailing at last

Anchoring in a quiet cove is one of my favorite things to do. It is very private, secure and quiet. And while riding at anchor, the boat usually points into the wind, which makes the aft cockpit in the lee and sheltered by the cabin

Anchoring out creates special and spiritual moments!

Sheltered behind a protecting castle

Anne is relaxing into boat life!

Dave's morning exercise

What made this cruise so enjoyable? The weather was warm and sunny. Summer in the med can be near perfect. The crew of Crosheres was very easy, comfortable and harmonious... We have been friends and sailing buddies for over 50 years. 

And our itenary and travels were spectacular!

Cadaques, our last port in Spain.
Salvador Dali loved this town and painted here for decades.

Bouillabaisse in Marseille France

We picked a calm day to sail the 115 miles across the Gulf of Lyon to Marseille, France.

Entrance into Marseille Harbor

Marseille is famous for several things. This was a tinder box in the French Revolution... More people died in Marseille by the guillotine than anywhere else in France. It also gave France their national anthem, the La Marseillaise. And this is the birthplace of Bouillabaisse, a very tasty French fish stew.

A bouillabaisse rich environment!

Authentic harbor life in Marseille

Keeping folk music and traditions alive

It is interesting how western France, on the Atlantic coast, differs from southern France  along the Mediterranean . The seafood in Normandy and Brittany, abutting the English Channel, is far more varied and plentiful. Fresh oysters and mussels are on every menu on the Atlantic coast, and I enjoyed escargot in most restaurants. Oysters are rare along the Mediterranean coast, and I couldn't find snails anywhere. Regional tastes and the lack of tides in the Med must both contribute to these dietary differences.

Annette left No Regrets in Marseille. Thank you McMurphy for making the past month so damn much fun!

Enjoying cruising at last

The French Riviera

There are so many towns, cities, bays and harbors along the French coast. The names themselves conjure up such romantic visions... Toulon, Saint-Tropez, Cannes, Antibes, Monaco, Cote 'd Azur and the French Riviera!

Entrance into Cassis 

When in Cassis, one must have a glass of Cassis!

Hovering in St Tropiz while the crew shops ashore for food

Crystal clear water of St Marguerite Island, 10 miles outside Cannes

This anchorage comes complete with a daily ice creme boat :))

And sunsets that reflect on this paradise!

A magical harbor in Monaco

Corsica

Corsia is a large Mediterranean island about 110 miles to the south of Monaco. The French think they own it, but the Corsicans consider themselves independent. Corsica is the birthplace of Napoleon, and is also where Lord Nelson lost his eye in a navel battle.

Even the flag of Corsica depicts their rebel attitude and the Moorish influence

Landfall at Calvi, a Corsican harbor protected by the obligatory fortifications

Calvi's protected harbor and charming town




Can you Imagine attacking this fortication? 

It is protected by Angels

And watchtowers

Typical feudal streets... Narrow and designed for horses

Quiet harbors in Corsica

Building supplies being helicoptered in

Entrance into Bonifacio 

A spectacular sliver of a hidden and protested natural harbor

No Regrets in the lee of yet another feudal fortress

Exploring couldn't be more fun

Through cities built over time

Pasta in Sardinia Italy

Sardinia is the second largest island in the Med. It is only 10 miles south of Corsica and is 70 miles north of Sicily, the biggest island in the Med. 

Sardinia is owned by Italy, and is definitely different than Corsica. It is amazing that one can have Bouillabaisse for lunch in French Corsica, and then pasta for dinner in Italian Sardinia. What a wonderful juxtaposition of food, languages, dress and cultures. The only common denominator is the currency, because most countries in the European Union use the Euro.

Castelsardo was our Sardinian landfall after leaving Bonafacio

Another country means another obligatory trip to the phone store for yet another data SIM card for Wifi connection. Each country has it's own phone companies which require a different phone data chip to connect to their Wifi. Why isn't this as universal as GPS is? Global Positioning Satellites were invented in the US, but are free for all in the world to use. Wifi should be as accessible without the layering of national phone companies seeking profits.

In the beginning, I kept track of all of the time spent finding new phone companies and their data SIM cards. but after much efforts, I just surrendered to the process. I am sure that I have spent at least 90 hours in the quest for Wifi.

Sailing and religion evolved together throughout the Med.

The last cape before turning into Alghero, Sardinia

Alghero is a small town of 40,000 people

The Sardinian courtesy flag is on the top. It displays a total of 4 Moors.
The flag in the middle is from Catatonia in Spain. Barcelonetta is the nickname of Alghero.
And the Italian flag confirms their national alligence 

A farewell pasta dinner before saying arrivederci to Dave and Anne

We have enjoyed Tapas, Bouillabaisse and now Pasta!

Alghero looks like a fine place to spend the winter :))




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